A driveway that lasts through Rochester winters needs firm soil underneath, a compacted crushed-stone base, a pitch that sends water away from the house, and hot-mix asphalt that is rolled while it is still hot. Skip any one of those and the driveway cracks, sinks or holds water within a few winters.
What is actually under a good driveway
Asphalt is flexible. It spreads a car's weight down into whatever is beneath it, so the surface can only be as strong as the layers under it. A driveway is really three layers:
- Subgrade. The native soil. Topsoil, roots and soft spots have to come out because they compress and hold water.
- Stone base. Crushed stone spread and compacted in layers. This is the structure of the driveway. It carries the load and lets water drain instead of sitting under the asphalt.
- Asphalt. Hot-mix asphalt laid and rolled on top. For ordinary car traffic, 2 to 3 inches of compacted asphalt over a compacted stone base is typical. Heavier vehicles, RVs or soft soil call for more of both, and your estimate should say exactly what is going in.
When you compare estimates, ask each contractor how deep the base will be and what the asphalt thickness is after compaction. Loose asphalt shrinks as it is rolled, so the number before rolling is not the number that matters.
How a new driveway gets built, step by step
- Walk the site and mark it outWe look at where water runs today, where the driveway meets the garage slab and the street, and how wide it needs to be for the cars you actually park. The outline is marked with paint before any digging starts.
- Excavate to firm groundOld surface, topsoil and soft material come out. If a section of soil is wet or spongy, it gets dug deeper and replaced, because a soft spot under the stone becomes a dip in the asphalt.
- Build and compact the stone baseCrushed stone goes down in layers and each layer is compacted. This is the step that is easiest to cut corners on, because it is buried by the end of the day.
- Set the gradeThe base is shaped so water sheds off the driveway and away from the foundation and garage, not toward them and not into a low spot in the middle.
- Lay the hot mixAsphalt arrives hot from the plant and is spread with a paver. Edges, corners and tie-ins at the garage and street are finished by hand with rakes and lutes while the mix is still workable.
- Roll it while it is hotRollers compact the asphalt before it cools. Compaction closes up the surface so water cannot soak in, which is what keeps the driveway from raveling and cracking early.
- Clean up and hand it overEdges are backfilled, the site is cleaned, and you get clear instructions on when cars can go on it and how to treat it for the first season.
Turning a gravel driveway into asphalt
A lot of Rochester-area homes, especially in the outer towns, still have gravel. Converting it is usually a good candidate for asphalt, because the existing gravel can often be regraded and compacted into part of the new base, once the soft and muddy sections are dug out and rebuilt.
What Rochester winters do to a driveway
Rochester averages about 102 inches of snow a year, with roughly 27 inches in January alone (National Weather Service normals for 1991 to 2020). That means months of plows, shovels, road salt, and water that melts in the afternoon and refreezes overnight. Water that gets into a driveway freezes, expands and pushes the surface apart. A driveway built on a well-drained, compacted base sheds that water. One built on soft soil holds it, and the freeze-thaw cycles turn small cracks into potholes.
Plows and shovels are the other big factor. Clean, well-compacted edges hold up to a plow blade. Edges that were never compacted, or that hang over soft soil, are the first thing to break off.
When to pave
Hot-mix asphalt has to be placed hot, so paving follows the plant calendar. Western New York hot-mix plants generally stop production in November and start again in April, which is why fall fills up fast. Cracks and potholes that show up in winter get a temporary cold patch until the plants reopen. If you are planning a new driveway, getting an estimate in late winter or early spring gives you the most scheduling room.
Driveway rules inside the City of Rochester
If the property is inside Rochester city limits, the city has its own process, and it applies to more than brand-new driveways. The city's self-serve instructions say a Certificate of Zoning Compliance is required to legalize, resurface, expand, or install a driveway on private property. Work in the public right of way, which usually means the apron or curb cut at the street, goes through a separate approval with the Department of Environmental Services.
These are the property owner's approvals. We will walk the property with you so the plan you file matches the driveway that gets built. Every suburban town around Rochester has its own rules, so check the page for your town or call your town building department.
The first year with a new driveway
- New asphalt stays softer than you expect through its first summer. Avoid turning your steering wheel while the car is stopped, which scuffs the surface.
- Keep kickstands, jack stands, trailer tongues and ladders off it, or put a piece of plywood underneath to spread the weight.
- Do not sealcoat it right away. Asphalt has to cure first. The sealer maker we follow calls for at least four weeks in ideal weather before sealing new pavement, and many driveways are better off waiting for the following season. See driveway sealing.
What decides the price
We do not publish a per-square-foot price, because the honest answer depends on the site. These are the things that move the number:
- Size and shape. Total area, plus curves, turnarounds and parking pads.
- What has to come out. Tearing out old asphalt or concrete and hauling it away is real work.
- Base condition. A sound existing base can be reused. Soft or wet soil has to be dug out and rebuilt.
- Thickness. More asphalt and more base for heavier vehicles.
- Drainage and tie-ins. Fixing water problems, matching the garage slab and meeting the street cleanly.
- Access. How close a truck and paver can get.
Every estimate is free and written out line by line, so you can compare it fairly against anyone else's.
Common questions
How long before I can drive on a new asphalt driveway?
We will tell you on the day, because it depends on temperature and how thick the asphalt is. New asphalt needs to cool and harden before cars go on it, and it stays soft enough to scuff through its first summer, so avoid turning the wheel while parked.
How thick should an asphalt driveway be?
For ordinary car traffic, 2 to 3 inches of compacted asphalt over a compacted crushed-stone base is typical. Heavier vehicles or soft soil need more. The base matters as much as the asphalt, so ask any contractor for both numbers, measured after compaction.
Should I choose asphalt or concrete in Rochester?
Asphalt usually costs less up front, flexes with freeze-thaw, and is easy to patch or resurface. Concrete costs more but needs less routine maintenance, and it has to be ordered and cured correctly to resist road salt. Our concrete driveway page covers the trade-offs.
Can you pave over my old driveway?
Sometimes. If the existing driveway has a sound base and the problems are only on the surface, a new layer of asphalt (an overlay) can work. If it is sinking, alligator cracked or holding water, the base has failed and paving over it just copies the problems into the new surface. See driveway replacement.
When is the best time of year to pave?
Late spring through fall, while the hot-mix plants are running. Western New York plants generally shut down in November and reopen in April. Fall schedules fill quickly, so it pays to get an estimate early.
When should I seal a new asphalt driveway?
Not right away. New asphalt has to cure before it is sealed. The manufacturer guidance we follow calls for at least four weeks in ideal weather, and many new driveways wait until the next season.
Related services
- Driveway Replacement: Tear-out and repave when cracking, sinking or crumbling is past repair.
- Driveway Sealing: Sealcoating that protects asphalt from water, salt and sun, applied in the right weather.
- Parking Lot Sealcoating: Commercial sealcoating done in sections so your lot stays open.
- Asphalt Paving: Parking lots, private roads and commercial paving, including mill and overlay.